So far in this blog, I have talked a lot about the Ligurian coast, seaside walks, salty breezes, and starry skies… but my readers may not know that I am proudly Genoese and that it was in the Langhe region that I opened the doors of the first Vayadù houses.
With the arrival of autumn, I return to my quiet, motionless hills to enjoy the most beautiful colors of the year. Today, I’m taking you with me on a short, slow-paced trip to my favorite parts of the Langhe. Here, you won’t find long lists of destinations to visit and leave quickly, but only the essence of my favorite places.
A means of transport, a walk, a work of art, a winery, a restaurant… and, of course, a Vayadù house. The best taste of these hills, which reveal themselves best when unveiled little by little, like the finest wine.
Cycling on the Barolo route, among vineyards and giant benches
How can our slow tour begin if not by bicycle? It is my favourite means of transport here, even when the air is tingling my face, because it gives me the right rhythm to enjoy every nuance that nature has to offer, to totally immerse myself in the embrace of these panoramas, to fill myself with beauty and silence.
That’s why, when I reach my hills around Monforte d’Alba, I start the day with a hearty breakfast on the panoramic terrace of the Vineyard retreat, the Vayadù accommodation in the heart of the Langhe, then I dress comfortably and mount my bike.
If you also love to look at the world from the saddle of a bike but you cannot take it with you, don’t worry: in these hills there are many places to hire a traditional or e-bike! One example among all – just a minute from Barolo – is the historic Bike Square Langhe, reliable and well-stocked, where you can find the most suitable solution for your route and your physical condition.
But let’s return to the Barolo route, a journey through vineyards, wineries, castles, and villages in the Langhe region of Piedmont, which became an association promoting these enchanting areas more than 15 years ago.
My first section connects two Big Benches, on a route between the famous art installations that color these hills.
The starting point is the panoramic Big Bench #6 in bright fuchsia, where the Vayadù lodgings are located. From there, I take in no less than 11 Langa villages with my gaze and then—between descents and ascents—I climb up to the giant red bench.
After an hour or so of cycling, I like to stop right here, at the “serenity bench”, and climb on it for a little rest amidst the peaceful expanses of vineyards. I love this art project started by Chris Bangle more than ten years ago and which now has about 60 installations. I like it not only because it sets off the panoramic viewpoints of my hills, but also because it makes you change perspective and go back to childhood, with your feet dangling and your eyes full of wonder.
A scenic picnic at my favourite winery
Visiting Langhe is often synonymous with cellar experiences, to pay homage to the fruits that these extraordinary lands provide. After a stop at the happiness bench, I get back into the saddle and – in less than half an hour – I am at Cannubi vineyard, in my heart’s winery: Serio and Battista Borgogno, where Federica and Emanuela welcome me with a smile.
Beyond the name of the founders, today it is an almost all-female company: Emanuela takes care of the cellar and the vineyard, from pruning to harvesting, from pressing to bottling; while Federica brings their elegant Barolo to the world, dedicating herself to hospitality, communication and sales
Among their offerings, my favorite is the “Langhetta picnic”: I love sitting in their panoramic garden with a glass in my hand, enjoying a simple but elegant lunch made with local products.
The girls often sit next to me to chat, while our eyes wander together over the hills and our thoughts come together in an amazed smile that seems to say, “Do we really live here?!”
For those who want to take a trip back in time and explore the evolution of their Barolo over the years, I recommend their Cannubi Tasting Experience: a vertical tasting of seven Cannubi Barolos, including five Riservas, wines that patiently age in Slavonian oak barrels to become memorable experiences.
Thanks to this tasting, I discovered how the climate of our hills—from year to year—shapes the nectar of the same vineyard in profoundly different ways. And the art of the winemaker is just that: “giving expression to what nature gives”, an ancient but very dynamic art, in eternal evolution.
Truffle hunting in the wood: my favourite walk
After the winery experience, there is only one reason why I decide to park my bike for a while and continue on foot: a walk in the woods together with a trifulau – that’s how we call a truffle hunter here in Piedmont – and his trusty dogs, in search of other precious treasures in these hills. This, too, is one of the experiences offered by the Borgogno Serio Battista winery, in an enchanting wood close to their vineyard.
Truffle hunting in the woods is one of my favourite experiences when I return to my Langhe, because it stimulates my ability to observe, to trust intuition and small signals, and the silent understanding with the people and animals that come with me.
Truffle hunting in the woods is one of my favourite experiences when I return to my Langhe, because it stimulates my ability to observe, to trust intuition and small signals, and the silent understanding with the people and animals that come with me.
Borgo Sant’Anna: eating truffles (but not only)
If I’m still feeling peckish, I cycle breathlessly up to my favorite restaurant in the Langhe, which makes me deserve a special treat. Borgo Sant’Anna is not just a restaurant with simple, understated elegance, but a real little village where you can feel a strong connection with the treasures of the earth and the slow pace of its cycles.
I always choose it when I want to taste the Langhe in a dish: a recipe prepared by the skilful hands of Pasquale Laera, who knows how to put together simple and precious ingredients, the ancient knowledge of the people working these hills and his explosive curiosity, in a mix that becomes a living memory.
One more suspended pause on their panoramic viewpoint and then I speed towards the Vineyard retreat as the sight of the most beautiful colours of the year crosses my eyes.
